I’ve been spending the last few weeks in Spain and Italy where I have walked, unassumingly, into tapas bars and coffee shops and found Chinese people behind the tall counters.
They lean over and chat with customers; they work the espresso machine effortlessly; and the coffee, the sandwiches and the patatas bravas are just as good as any other bar.
I always ask where the bar owners or waiters come from, and in almost every instance, they have told me: “I come from Qingtian.”
The phenomenon of Chinese-run bars in Italy and Spain is a fairly recent development, something that began in earnest about five years ago. Some of the earliest immigrants started off running restaurants, serving Chinese food catering to the local populations. In Spain and Italy, “almond chicken” seems to be a favourite and of course, everyone (whether you’re Italian, Spanish or American) seems to love the spring roll. Then, the Chinese started opening garment and shoe factories. As China’s manufacturing industry boomed, the import/export businesses proved to be a lucrative venture. The Chinese bring over shiploads of clothing and products that are “Made in China” and sell them for double the value in Europe.
But all of these markets are now saturated as migration from China has continued to flow to Europe.
So the immigrants are branching out. Now, bars seem to be the all the hype. I have met migrants who have left the clothing business behind for a life behind the bar. One closed down a garment factory in Rimini after more than 15 years in operation and moved to Torino this year to run a bar.
There has been some nasty talk in the streets and in the Italian and Spanish media about Chinese immigrants stealing business opportunities from the locals. But, the fact is, running a bar is hard work. The hours are long and you are always on your feet. Many young Italians and Spaniards don’t want this life, so family bars are sold to Chinese immigrants who are willing to take on this lifestyle.
The more interesting question is: What do the Chinese know about running bars? Coffee and wine are a way of life here in Europe. Can an immigrant be a part of this scene here in Europe?
I believe they can. But there are some common missteps Chinese immigrants should avoid. I sat down with a young Qingtian entrepreneur in Italy named Leo Chen. Chen has done a lot of research on the bar scene in Italy. Not only is he an Asian who can hold his liquor, he’s preparing to open a bar in Torino this month. According to him, here are some of the common mistakes Chinese bar owners make:
Kecheng "Leo" Chen, a young Chinese entrepreneur in Italy, will open a new bar in Torino later this month.
Mistake #1
Not turning on the lights. “I’ve walked into bars run by Chinese where there are 10 lights and the owners will only turn on two or three,” Chen said. “They just can’t bring themselves to turn on the other ones for the sake of saving electricity. It’s a problem because customers walk into a bar and it’s dark and unpleasant. They’ll turn around and walk right out of there.”
Mistake #2
Not turning on the heat. “Again, it’s a problem because many Chinese immigrants don’t even turn on the heat at home. They see it as a waste of electricity,” Chen explained. “I’ve also been in Chinese-run bars where the owner can’t bring himself to turn on the air conditioning during the summer.”
Mistake #3
No free food. “Italians expect that if they go into a bar and order a drink, there will be appetizers like potato chips, or bread and parma ham for them to much on,” he said. “In my bar, I hope to provide not only free appetizers, but also biscotti, and eventually maybe even sushi.”
Mistake #4
The owners won’t allow the bar tender to drink with patrons. “It’s important to establish a good rapport between bar tender and customer,” Chen said. “Running a bar is not just about pouring the drinks and serving them.”
I will be in Torino next week for the opening of Chen’s new bar. Let’s see how this young entrepreneur fairs in this new business venture!
