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Canon DSLR falls in South China Sea

Thursday, September 2nd, 2010 | Photos, posts | 1 Comment

So, our Canon 500DSLR has fallen in the South China Sea. It hit the water on Saturday, August 28, 2010 at around 5 or 6 p.m. Hong Kong time.

It was in my boyfriend’s backpack when he fell backward into the water as he tried to board a seadoo. The seadoo had suddenly lurched backward, carried up and back by strong, aggressive waves.

I was on the seadoo, my hand stretched out behind me, reaching for him when he fell backward. The seadoo was already revving its engine, ready to head toward a waiting yacht, 100 metres from the beach.

What was I doing on a seadoo? Why were we headed toward a yacht?

Let me tell you what happened. But first, some background so you can understand where I’m coming from…

I am not an outdoorsy girl.

I have always enjoyed being outdoors, exercising outdoors, and have even been an enthusiastic participant of such outdoor adventures like dragon boating, white water rafting (In Ottawa!), cave exploring, kayaking (In Hong Kong), and climbing up rather large mountains (all over China).

But I am not an outdoorsy girl. Really, I’m not.

It’s not originally me. I’m from Toronto.  I live in the city. I used to spend my weekends at the mall. Sometimes, I’d go on road trips to LOOK at the outdoors. The trees and rolling Ontario hills were enjoyed from the comfort of my car. “Beautiful scenery! Lovely leaves! Oh, let’s roll down the window to get a closer look…”

But something changed when I lived in Beijing for a year. The people I hung out with loved doing crazy things outdoors. We hired drivers who brought us out to the rugged ruins of the Great Wall, hours away from the touristy hawkers where we crawled on our hands and knees over the wall’s rubble. We ventured into the Longjing Gorge and took great leaps of faith… and we climbed up as many mountains as we could (I was able to climb Huangshan, Changbaishan and Taishan) and down gorges (namely, the Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yunnan) as far as our legs would carry us.

But let’s be honest here. I haven’t REALLY changed – have I? Because a large part of the motivation to do such things came from the people I surrounded myself with. When in Rome… The experience of overcoming such challenges, of pushing my physical limits, was exhilirating when I did it with the group. Alone, I fear I lose my outdoorsy spirit and I retreat to the malls.

In Hong Kong, the boyfriend has worked on getting me back outside, with nature, in the sun and heat, on the mountains and on the beaches, next to the trees and the wildlife. It has not been an easy transition.

Kayaking in Sai Kung with friends

Hong Kong is one of those places where there’s a crazy metropolis, buzzing with life at all hours of the day. You can get anything in this city – everything Chinese and everything Western – and you can also hop on a bus or a boat and in about an hour, you’ll find yourself facing some of the most stunning views of the South China Sea – blue-green water, lush mountains, sun and sand. In a word, it is truly awesome. And, I’ve enjoyed my time in the Hong Kong wilderness these months. I’ve hiked on the outlying islands, Lamma and Cheung Chau, and I’ve spent some time in Sai Kung, a 12,600 hectare country park north-east of Hong Kong Island.

This weekend, a friend joined the boyfriend and I for another hike. This time we set off for the deserted beaches deep in Sai Kung country park – and that, my friends, is the scene of the crime, the place where our Canon DSLR fell into the water.

We started our hike a little late in the day – which isn’t a good idea, considering we were headed deep into the park. But we wanted to sleep in and we wanted to have our dim sum breakfast. Aiya.

For those of you interested in taking this hike, here are the details…

Get to Diamond Hill subway station — take bus 92 to Sai Kung  — At Sai Kung, take bus 94 into the park to Wong Shek Pier.

At the Pier, you can either hire a speed boat ($120  HKD one way) or wait for the slow ferry that will take another 45 minutes at least to get you to Chek Keng.

From Chek Keng, you’re supposed to follow the Maclehose Trail eastwards. Here’s where things went wrong for us. We reached the Maclehose Trail in good time, but the trail is a circuit. We could go west or east (left or right) and we asked some hikers on the trail which way to Tailongwan (Big Wave Bay). We were told to go left. This, I believe, was bad intel.

The path is supposed to climb the side of a valley, to a ridge where you can rest, and look out across the natural amphitheatre centred on Tai Long Wan. The path then winds down, to the hamlet of Tai Long, after which it’s an easy walk to Ham Tin, beside the southernmost beach.

Instead, we climbed up a mountain for about an hour, sweating and swiping at mosquitos. We couldn’t see the beach, but we pressed on. Hikers coming towards us assured us the beach was up ahead.

We finally began our descent and after more than 30 minutes, we reached a village! We were greeted by a beautiful blue wave painted on the wall of a village building. “Surf’s Up!” it read. But when we turned the corner, this is what we saw:

The village was deserted. The houses were boarded up. Stores were shuttered. Where was the beach?

We saw two paths. One went into the woods with no clear foot path. The other, blocked by 5 dogs sleeping lazily in the heat. If there are dogs, then there are people, right? We called out to see if anyone was around. No response. We took a few slow steps towards the dogs, inching forward. Then, we heard a low belly growwwwwl and two dogs suddenly stood up, ears perky, those little faces staring us down. (I would put a picture here, but there was no time to take one, you see.)

Okay, we thought, back away slowly. Slowly. Slowly. Anddddd TURN AND RUN.

We had no choice but to run the other way, into the woods. There was no path, but we couldn’t turn back and head the way we came. It was getting late and we would be hiking the mountain in the dark. We tried thinking where we had gone astray – we didn’t miss a turn, there was only one route here. We didn’t realize that we had turned west instead of east at the very beginning of the trail. Besides, it was too late to go back even if we did realize it at the time. So we went further and further into the woods, balancing over swampy grounds on makeshift bridges, navigating over rocks and massive,  protruding tree roots. I let my emotions and fears get the best of me and inside, I was freaking out.

We could hear the buzz of speedboats in the distance, but we continued on for an hour through the woods, and still no beach.

“I’m scared,” I said out loud, but scared didn’t help. Finally, finally, FINALLY after about a total of 3 hours hiking we emerged and saw this:

We were on Tai Long Dong Wan, one of Sai Kung’s deserted beaches, one of the beaches we had planned to visit that day, but not via the route we took. The boys were enjoying the views, but I could not. All I could think about was how we were going to go home. I didn’t see any speedboats — just yachts. What to do?

Get on a yacht, of course.

I saw a man and his children playing on the beach. I approached him. “We were chased by dogs,” I said. “We’ve been hiking for hours. Do you know if there are speed boats here we can rent?” He said he didn’t see any speed boats….there was a bit of a silence…. and then:

“You can get a ride back to the pier with us.”

That is how I ended up on the sea doo. That is why the boyfriend was also trying to get on, when a strong wave knocked him back. That is how water got into the backpack and into the camera body and our lens (a Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM).

The really good news is that the camera still turns on, but the sensor cleaner is on a continuous cycle in an attempt to clean the body. Even when we turn the camera off, there is a constant click click click. There’s also water droplets visible in the lens.

Canon will call this week with a quote on repairs. Let’s hope the damage won’t break the bank.

Lessons learned?

1) Carry a compass. Or, get a handy GPS for hiking trails. Anyone have one of those?

2) Start earlier in the day.

3) Get a water proof bag for the DSLR, even if it’s in the backpack. Any suggestions on where and what kind of bag to get?

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Hong Kong Photo Blog #1

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010 | Photos | 1 Comment

I was slouching on a nearby couch, when I saw this sign. I sat up immediately.

What would you have done?


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It tastes like Chicken…

Monday, April 19th, 2010 | Photos, posts | 6 Comments

Bringing dinner home

I’ve never been squeamish about food. One of my favorite dishes at dim sum is steamed chicken feet. I relish the soft, rich flavors of braised cow’s tongue. I grew up appreciating the textures and pungent aromas of various animal organs and innards.

There is a Cantonese saying: 背脊向天，都可以食. “Any animal whose back faces the sun can be eaten.”

It was, and continues to be, a motto I live by.

(EXCEPT I’ve recently decided not to eat Shark’s Fin – a Chinese delicacy that can sell for 100s of dollars a bowl – because of the cruel and inhumane ways in which the fin is acquired, not to mention the fact that sharks are endangered and that the Shark Fin industry is a huge criminal operation in Hong Kong…but that’s an issue for an upcoming post…)

The point is, I can’t even recall the numerous times I’ve watched my Mom hack up a soya sauce chicken at home for dinner.

It’s probably one of my favorite things to eat, ever. So I decided my first home-cooked meal to celebrate my new adventures in Hong Kong would be a classic Cantonese chicken dinner.

We’ve never bought a chicken live. In Canada, the chickens come plucked, beheaded and conveniently frozen or refrigerated in a clean, polished supermarket aisle.

Bravely, I marched over to the local market in my Kowloon neighborhood, anticipating I would have a live chicken slaughtered for dinner.

Did it happen? No. EPIC FAIL.

One walk down the “chicken aisle” in the market, and the sight of live chickens cooped up in cages -feathers, heads still attached and clucking away made me shudder. As I walked down the aisle, I noticed most of the stalls were dark and blue and white tape lined the walls indicating the area had been shut down by the Hong Kong department of health.

I was surprised by how quickly I was deterred. I knew there were many other places I could get chicken. So I retreated to the nearby supermarket. Maybe another day…

I bought a chilled chicken, a small one, and it cost $27 HKD, about $4 USD.

I decided to salt and pepper a chicken overnight and prepare a side dish of ginger and scallions to go along with it. Classic Cantonese fare.

At home, I took the chicken out of the bag to prepare it, grasping its thighs, one hand on each side of the body, sorta like holding a baby out in front of you….  and then OUTTTTTTT popped the neck over the sink – head and all. I saw the chicken’s eyes: closed, shut, like it was sleeping, or pretending to sleep? And its beak: small, hard, pale white, as it bobbed up and down before me.

And then, I, the one who eats “any animal whose back faces the sun” squealed and gasped and grimaced and oh so clumsily found a plate to plop that chicken down. I backed away.

The head would have to come off. But how to work up the courage to do it?

It took several minutes but I pulled myself together and then I took a big butcher knife, placed a white paper towel to cover the head of the chicken, and raised my blade up in the air.

BANG!

Down the blade came, making an indent in the neck. But the head did not come loose.

Again! BANG!

BANG! BANG! BANG!

I didn’t cut off the chicken’s head. I hacked it off.

That night, we enjoyed our chicken dinner, along with brown rice and stir fried broccoli and chinese mushrooms. Tomorrow, some thoughts on Hong Kong etiquette and signage.

Chopping the green onion and ginger for the garnish…

Salt and pepper the chicken raw in a plastic ziploc bag overnight.

The next day, steam for half an hour to an hour depending on the size of the bird. I steamed this one for about 30 minutes. (Notice the hacked off head.)

Let it cool in the open air and then hack it up, and serve with brown rice and stir fried veggies. YUM!

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Bao 包 on the Lower East Side

Monday, March 15th, 2010 | Photos, posts | No Comments

Flickr/blizzardzz

Earlier this month, a friend and I decided to try Baohaus on the Lower East Side.

The small eatery on Rivington Street near Essex specializes in Taiwanese hamburgers－ Guobao 刮包 － white, fluffly Chinese buns, or 馒头 mantou (like the sweet bbq pork buns you get at dimsum) stuffed with savory slices of beef or pork belly and topped with Taiwanese condiments like crushed peanuts, pickled mustard greens 酸菜, red sugar and chopped cilantro.

It’s one of few places in the city that offers such Taiwanese street fare. Momofuku, the overpriced ramen shop in the East Village that is all the rage, has a similar dish except they stuff the bun with Peking duck.

It quickly became the next foodie thing blogs and food columns in the city, and was even featured on the Food Network and reviewed in the New York Times.

I had to try this place.

It turns out, all that publicity was both a blessing and a curse.

When I got down to Baohaus on a Tuesday night around 7:15 p.m. and the place – all 440 square feet of it – was packed.

In the basement of a narrow building on Rivington, Baohaus had a communal table (painted blue) that tightly sits about 10 people. There was a separate table near the door that seats 4. A television against the wall was showing an NBA game, while a stereo system blasted top 40 music. It was chaos.

The door was open, letting a draft sweep down into the eatery and causing all the patrons to shiver in their down jackets while many waited – an hour! – for their food.

When I went up to the cash register to order and pay, I had to stand for about 15 minutes as the cashier struggled to keep up with the orders. She took each order down on a sticky note…. one of which fell down behind the stove, causing a panic because that order had yet to be cooked. The cashier ended up having to take that order again.

I ordered the Royal Frush – $28.00 for any 6 baos, bao fries (sliced up mantou, deep fried and drizzled in black sesame sauce), a cup of boiled peanuts. We tried all three baos, ones with Angus Steak in it, others with Niman Ranch Pork Belly, and the tofu bao.

It took an hour for them to deliver the food. By then, it was nearly 8 p.m. and the staff told us they had a birthday party coming in and that we would have to eat out food outside.

“We’ve been waiting nearly an hour for our food, and now you’re telling us to eat outside?” I asked.

Yes, was the answer. They had a birthday party coming in and everyone had to leave.

I told them that we’d eat quickly and insisted they let us stay – it was pretty ridonkulous that we had to eat outside after waiting so long for Taiwanese street food to be prepared. We stayed, as long as could. When the food finally came, we were so hungry and so rushed that we even forgot to take a photo of the baos before eating them. So I’ve pulled a photo off Flickr instead.

Angus Steak bao was a good quality piece of beef, toppings compliment the beef, which was soft, stringy and tasty. Pork belly bao was tender, juicy, but not as tasty as the steak.

I am all for supporting small Lower East Side eateries, especially creative Chinese-run enterprises…Baohaus is the brainchild of 27-year-old Eddie Huang, an American born Chinese whose parents are from Taiwan.

But seriously. This place has to clean up its act and deal with the crowds a little better. They could start by fixing up the place. The blue communal table isn’t pretty and just doesn’t work with their little space.

Perhaps others have complained this month because Baohaus is now closed for renovations. On Eddie Huang’s blog: Baohaus closed Monday (3/15) thru Wednesday (3/17) next week for interior renovations!!!

I won’t be going back to Baohaus – I’m headed to Asia next month and can get the real stuff for way cheaper than $4 a bao – but I’d be curious to see how the renovations go and how this business survives.

Baohaus

137 Rivington St.

New York, New York 10002

646-684-3835

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“Fried dough, what’s not to like?” –the story behind the story…

Sunday, July 26th, 2009 | Photos, posts | 5 Comments

This week, my story about the oh-so-beloved Canadian donut chain, Tim Hortons, was published. It serves as a “how are they doing?” story, since opening their first NYC locations 2 weeks ago.

As is the case with all stories, only about 1/9 of the research and interviews you gather actually makes it into the final piece. The painstaking process of cutting down your story to a short 600 words (average news pieces run 400-600) is what we writers call “killing our babies.”

I took special interest in the Tim Hortons story because first, it’s a great story. Second, I’m Canadian. Third, donut taste testing? I’m in!

The donut taste test was my idea. We spent a good 1/2 hour recording the reactions of a NYC donut expert, 23-year-old Kathy YL Chan. Chan is a real estate agent in NYC but she moonlights a dessert writer and blogger for websites like Serious Eats and Midtown Lunch. Her extensive guide on NYC’s best donuts is how I found her.

Today, I want to share the story behind the story with you. It’s all that those funny moments that happen during my research and interviews, things that don’t get into a quick and dirty news piece. It should also be noted that Zachary Abella, the Canadian lawyer now living in Manhattan, had TWICE made the two-hour drive to the Tim Hortons in Connecticut before NYC locations opened. The first time he went after work, thinking it would be a 24 hour Tims. He arrived at 11:14 p.m. and it was closed. The second attempt was made some weeks later on a Saturday afternoon. He bought a box of 20 timbits and a cup of hot chocolate, and a box of Tims coffee beans to bring home.

….

I meet Kathy at the 34th St. and Broadway Tim Hortons location. It’s right across the street from Macy’s and just around the corner from Korea town. It’s always busy in this area. Cars and yellow cabs, pedestrians, shoppers, people taking lunch/cigarette breaks. Timmies has taken up shop, sharing space with a KFC at the back. It’s a grungy kind of store. Not very clean. Just a few seats up front, and a kind of food court style seating at the back. 

The first thing you’ll notice about all the new Timmies in New York are the American flags displayed in the windows and entryways. It’s really important to tell Americans that this is an “all American” company, even though it’s not. The second thing a Canadian will notice is an addition to the Tim Hortons logo. The words: Coffee and Bake Shop. This one makes a lot of sense. How would the average American know that Tim Hortons is a place to buy coffee and baked goods? It’s funny but necessary.

I’m not sure what Kathy looks like, so I have to keep a lookout for her when I get to Tim’s. Surname is “Chan.” Okay, she’s ethnic Chinese. She samples desserts across New York City. Maybe I’m looking for someone who might be on the “heavy” side. 

So I eye the entryway. Chinese. Chubby. Chinese. Chubby. Chinese. Chubby… I start interviewing a woman, Jeanette Rubin, who stumbled into Tim’s looking for her Dunkin’ fix. She says she’s keeping an open mind and buys an iced coffee. I ask her to take a sip and tell me what she thinks. “It doesn’t have the Dunkin’ kick,” she says. And just then, I see a very tall and slim Chinese woman looking around the store. It’s Kathy YL Chan – former Chanel fashion model and pastry chef – and yep, she sure is Chinese but she sure isn‘t chubby.

We try to conduct our taste test inside, but two Tim Hortons PR people are making us nervous. They hover around the table, listening to our interview, and if I step away, one of them starts asking Kathy questions. I’ve been really open about what my story’s all about, yet this same PR rep asks me to tell him “my angle” twice. He makes this request of me with a big grin. *groan* They are polite and they hover, eavesdrop and interfere with a smile, but the conditions have made it impossible for us to have a private, free-flowing conversation. We take the donuts outside.

Out in the open air, everyone can relax.

AP Photo/Seth Wenig

It has to be said that Kathy has just come from a cinnamon bun tasting. Yet, she tackles the box of 12 donuts with gusto.

She takes one or two bites out of each donut, eyes downcast, chewing slowly, before she gives her verdict.

“Even a mediocre donut when it’s fresh is a lot better than a good donut when it’s old,” she says, noting that all of Tim’s donuts did indeed taste fresh.

In general, Kathy finds Tims donuts heavy, breadier and more cakey. For the coffee, she has to agree with Rubin.

 ”It is lacking the Dunkin’ kick,” she says. “But it doesn’t leave that bitter aftertaste.”

The chocolate dip is a bit of a hazard. It gets stuck on the lid of the donut box and “Look!” Kathy says. “We lose 50% of the chocolate!” For shame. But, Kathy notes, the chocolate is smooth and consistent, and not too sweet. (Personally, it is my fave out of all Timmies donuts)

 

AP Photo/Seth Wenig

Next, it’s the double chocolate donut. She takes a bite….. and shakes her head disapprovingly. “It doesn’t even taste like chocolate,” she exclaims.

…..

White sugar powder from the raspberry jelly donut leaves a mess on Kathy’s top lip and finger tips, but the jelly does not. “It’s very neat, very consistent,” she says.

….

The apple fritter (a personal favorite as I have a weakness for apples) was seriously disappointing. It was all cinnamon and “no apples!”

…..

She bites into the yeast donut with a generous topping of colorful sprinkles and says: “The sprinkles are unnecessary.”

AP Photo/Seth Wenig

 

Her favorite donut was the honey cruller, a lightly frosted, twisted yeast doughnut. A good NYC cruller is a “real gem,” she says, explaining the sad state of crullers in the city.

Timmies’ cruller had a “crisp exterior and an eggy, rich dough. Most places either make it too eggy, which results in a wet mess, or too dry. This is a good middle ground,” Chan said.

The end verdict was that Chan wouldn’t eat Timmies donuts if she didn’t have to.

“New York is so accessible,” she said. “Why would I come here if I just rode the subway two blocks to get a really good donut.”

We were finished with the taste test and I had to ask Kathy how she kept her figure. Of course, I should have known. She’s one of those people who DOESN’T exercise, can eat ANYTHING and everything she wants, yet doesn’t gain weight. So. Unfair. But at a recent doctor’s appointment, she was told to watch it — her sugar and cholesteral levels were off the charts. 

 

FINALLY, it was time to part. But what to do with the box of half-eaten donuts?

AP Photo/Seth Wenig

We decided to leave the box BESIDE a trash can. We didn’t feel right offering these donuts to anyone. But if someone really wanted it, they could take it. Sure enough, seconds after we put the box down, someone ran by and swiped the box. “Are you crazy?” he said to us. “What are you doing throwing away a perfectly good box of donuts?!”  This man, incidentally, was a poet and writer. Times are tough.

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Two stories worth hearing today..

Thursday, May 7th, 2009 | Photos, posts | No Comments

——————

Courtesy: Brooklyn Historical Society

A new exhibit about Chinese immigration to Brooklyn is opening tonight at the Brooklyn Historical Society.

The exhibit, “Living and Learning: Chinese Immigration, Restriction and Community in Brooklyn, 1850 to Present”, will weave together a story about Chinese immigrant life in Brooklyn, showcasing historical newspaper and periodical articles, oral histories, caricatures and photographs.

I’ll be at the opening tonight to talk the curator, Brooklyn resident Andy Urban, who is completing his PhD in History through the University of Minnesota.

The exhibition will be on display between May 8 and August 30 at the Brooklyn Historical Society; 128 Pierrepont St. (at Clinton St.); Brooklyn, NY 11201.

——————

A new documentary debuts on HBO tonight, documenting the sorrow and rage of parents in Sichuan who lost their children when schoolhouses collapsed on them during the Sichuan earthquake almost one year ago.

I was able to screen this amazing film - China’s Unnatural Disaster: The Tears of Sichuan Province - at the Columbia Jschool, and blogged about it here. 

For me, I was holding back tears throughout the film. Struck by the raw testimony given by the grieving parents, but also inspired  by their striking resilience. Poor, ordinary citizens, willing to stand up, demand answers, and hold their governments accountable. The film spoke to the strength of Chinese peasants, who continue to endure many hardships and sufferings in the midst of China’s race towards modernization.

China’s Unnatural Disaster: The Tears of Sichuan Province airs on TONIGHT – Thursday, May 7 at 8pm on HBO.

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One year ago, I was climbing a mountain in China.

Friday, May 1st, 2009 | Photos, posts | No Comments

It’s a cliche to say that time flies. But it really does. About a year ago, I was climbing China’s most beautiful mountain range – Yellow Mountain, known as 黄山 Huang Shan.

The first thing you notice about Yellow Mountain is that it looks like an old Chinese ink painting. Bonsai-like pine trees grow among its 77 peaks, some of which rise 1,000 metres above sea level. Rock formations, with tinges of a beautiful yellow, twist around like ink strokes on a page. Lingering wisps of cloud that float and hang overhead, watching over each and every peak, as far as the eye can see. Huang Shan has inspired the Chinese for centuries, — over tens of thousands of poems have been written about the mountain and a school of painting is named after it.

It was my first mountain. Along with six good friends, we first took an overnight train from Beijing to the city of Hangzhou. The next day, we made our way to the mountain, climbed more than seven hours to the peak, and slept in a hostel at the top. We had just a few hours sleep, all seven of us on bunk beds packed into one room in the hostel, because we had to wake up early to watch the sunrise. Afterward we made our way down (which was just as strenuous as going up, taking about 7 hours, too) and spent the following days exploring villages in Anhui province. (It was back to Beijing after that for the Jay Chou concert woot woot!)

Climbing Huang Shan was very intense and physically demanding — there were times I really thought I wasn’t going to be able to keep climbing. My legs were shaking violently, I was hurting all over, sweating like crazy, and I had trouble catching my breath. Just imagine – 7 hours of these painful symptoms!

But I had really good friends with me to cheer me on — and somehow I made it. And oh how it was worth it.

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Half way across the world…

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009 | Photos | 2 Comments

This is a picture of the sky in Rotterdam, The Netherlands RIGHT NOW. WASAI!!! 哇塞！

Believe

Thursday, April 16th, 2009 | Photos, posts | No Comments

At a bubble tea cafe in Manhattan Chinatown not long ago, the conversation turned to elves, knomes and dwarves. My friend, a Korean exchange student, wasn’t clear what an elf was. Though I am Asian, I was born in North America and have messy “boy” writing, so I lack finesse in the fine art of sketching. Still, I reproduced this masterpiece for my friend, who instantaneously recognized what an “elf” was. Another friend took out the camera and snapped a photo of this, in case it might be worth something one day. Today, to lift my spirits, he e-mailed it to me with the subject line: Believe. He was right. The sketch was definitely worth something today.

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