new york city
From Chinatown streets to Washington D.C.
Saturday, January 30th, 2010 | posts | No Comments
It started with chatter on Chinatown street corners, and soon, the conversations moved into neighborhood community centers.
Hold the terror trials here? In my neighborhood?
Apparently so.
Federal officials had announced in November plans to hold the trials of Khalid Sheik Mohammed and four other self-professed 9/11 terrorists in a federal courthouse – right in the middle of Manhattan’s Chinatown.
Steps away from the Pearl Street courthouse is Columbus Park; where seniors bellow out Beijing opera in the pavilion, where men gather to play cards and Chinese chess, and where teens kick around soccer balls on the astro turf.
Around the corner are Vietnamese pho eateries on Centre Street, and a plethora of small household supply shops and grocery stores.
On nearby Mulberry Street, three Chinese funeral homes serve the Chinese American community – and honor the Chinese American dead – in New York City and across the entire eastern seaboard.
New York City’s Chinatown is not just a place of business. It’s home to one of the city’s oldest communities.
The trials, which are expected to last several years, would have locked down those neighborhood streets and cut the area into security zones bordered by metal barriers and armed guards. The tightest security zone would heavily restrict pedestrian and vehicle traffic in the heart of Chinatown, an area still rebuilding and recovering from the effects of 9/11.
Chinatown and lower Manhattan residents mobilized quickly. They knew they had to fight this before it got too far.
Community board officials soon joined in, sending a resolution to U.S. Attorney General Eric Holder proposing alternative venues: Governors Island, the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, a federal courthouse in White Plains, Stewart Air National Guard Base in Newburgh and a federal institution in Otisville.
Support from city politicians followed, including Mayor Michael Bloomberg, who changed his mind on the matter.
He had originally called moving the trials to Governors Island “dumb.”
Chinatown residents did not miss a beat – they fired back calling the plan to hold the trials in their neighborhood “dumber.”
Then things started to change. Whether it was because of the mayor, I don’t know. But things snow balled. Politicians and lawmakers jumped on the bandwagon.
Gov. David Paterson, Sen. Charles Schumer and Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand said this week they were open to a move, and Republican Congressman Peter King introduced a bill that would prohibit the use of Justice Department funds to try Guantanamo detainees in federal civilian courts.
The growing chorus of dissent went straight through to Washington D.C.: Move the terror trials out of Manhattan.
Late Thursday night, news broke that federal officials were talking about moving the trials.
Today, it’s clear the message got through. The Obama administration is now looking at other options.
A source in Chinatown, who relentlessly called and emailed me about this story, talked to me on Friday about the “power of the people to make the impossible possible.”
I am so proud of the Chinatown community here in New York City. Literally from the grassroots level, from neighbors talking to neighbors, they fought through the politics and the bureaucracy to get their message to the federal government.
In a forwarded e-mail, a member of the Chinese community wrote this:
“…no more just firecrackers and lion dance. From now on, we are not going to be taken granted, and we’ll say “NO.” Don’t dare to take advantage of our amiable manner again, no more. We’ll play hard ball too from now on.”
It’s a profound message because Chinese Americans have stereotypically been “model citizens.” They don’t like to rock the boat, they don’t like to make too much noise. They typically keep their heads down, work hard, and earn money so they can send their kids to good schools.
But when something like this comes along, they knew they had to fight it all the way. And they did. Bravo.
Best Cheung Fun 肠粉 in Chinatown
Wednesday, January 20th, 2010 | posts | No Comments
I just had the best Cheung Fun I’ve ever had in Manhattan.
I have always said New York City Chinese food is decent, at best. Never amazing. Much lower in the ranks when compared to my hometown of Toronto, the great Chinese food mecca that is Vancouver, and the most awesome city that is Hong Kong.
But today, I’ll give it to you, Manhattan.
Cheung Fun is a steaming rice noodle roll that I have a weakness for. It’s a Cantonese dish from the south of China and Hong Kong and you can usually find it at dim sum.
Cheung Fun – 肠粉 – is commonly filled with shrimp, pork, beef or vegetables. Pour sweet soy sauce over it and take a bite. … Amazing? Delicious? Yes. I know.
One favorite variety, that keeps it real simple, is cheung fun with dried shirmps and scallions embedded in it’s sticky, soft noodle. Today, I found what may possibly be the best cheung fun in Manhattan’s Chinatown.
I was on Grand Street and thought I’d try somewhere new.
I spied on Hong Wong Restaurant at 300 Grand St. near Allen. It was a small shop, with barbecue ducks and chickens hanging in the window. A television set at the back was broadcasting a Chinese singing contest. All locals. Regulars. No tourists. Waiters were super nice and not rushed. I loved it.
I planned to order a classic wonton noodle soup, something quick I usually grab when I’m working and on the run. But I noticed Hong Wong had 肠粉 on the front of their menu, going for just $1.75 a plate.
I was greedy. I ordered wonton and duck noodle soup AND a rice noodle roll with dried shrimps and scallions.
So soft! So sticky! So very fresh and tasty! And it cost me less than $7 total. Be sure to check it out next time you’re down there.
Hidden Gem on Canal Street
Friday, January 15th, 2010 | posts | No Comments
The Loews Canal Street Theater in its heyday. (credit: New York Public Library, left/Rebecca Lepkoff, right)
Admittedly, I have walked by 31 Canal St. and never looked twice.
It is an old, shuttered electronics shop with a sign that reads “ABC enith” – It’s missing the Z in “Zenith.”
But if I looked up, I would have seen this beautiful white façade, festooned by masks, wreaths and griffins.
And inside, the old chandeliers and much of the original terra-cotta details remain, although the movie theater seats — which held 2,314 people with 1,481 on the first floor and 833 on the balcony — were cleared out long ago.
Yes, 31 Canal St. was once a Loews “movie palace” and when it opened in the 1920s, black and white pictures moved silently on the screen while a man at the front of the theater played classical music on the piano.
Today, the neighborhood is much changed. Chinatown residents, looking to establish a culture center for the community, believe the former Loew’s theater may be the right spot.
Here’s my latest on a hidden gem in our incredible city of New York:
By Suzanne Ma
DNAinfo Reporter/Producer
LOWER EAST SIDE — On summer weekends, Rebecca Lepkoff remembers holding 15 cents in her hand and lining up to get into the Loew’s Canal Street Theater to escape the heat of her Hester Street tenement.
It was 1928, and she was just 12 years old
The enormous movie theater on Canal Street near Ludlow was the center of the neighborhood.
“It was a lovely theater. It was a beautiful theater,” Lepkoff, now 93, told DNAinfo. “It was very roomy.”
Today, the decrepit theater, which closed down nearly four decades ago, is a warehouse.
But it may get a new life — as a Chinese performing arts center — and once again become the center of an old neighborhood, now largely dominated by Chinese immigrants.
The former movie palace is easy to miss. At first glance, 31 Canal St. looks simply like a shuttered electronics shop.
But look up and you will see a beautiful white façade, festooned by masks, wreaths and griffins.
Inside, the old chandeliers and much of the original terra-cotta details remain, although the seats — which held 2,314 people with 1,481 on the first floor and 833 on the balcony — were cleared out long ago.
Over the next six months, engineers will be surveying the 84-year-old building, which today is owned by Thomas Sung, the founder and chairman of the board of the Abacus Federal Savings Bank in Chinatown.
The building is just one of many locations Amy Chin is scouting out on behalf of a non-profit arts group in Chinatown called CREATE.
The search for a cultural center in Chinatown began after 9/11 with the help of former City Councilman Alan Gerson. CREATE received $150,000 for the performance center from the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation, and should receive an additional $140,000 for the next phase of planning.
“There isn’t one place where the Chinatown community can gather for cultural events or performances,” Chin told DNAinfo. “This theater is just amazing, sitting there, unused all this time.”
China focus?
Sunday, January 10th, 2010 | posts | No Comments
Someone asked me about what direction the blog will take in the coming year. You may have noticed the change of the banner, from a bubbling Sichuan hot pot to a beautiful night panorama of the Manhattan skyline taken from a Brooklyn pier.
You also may have noticed my last two posts have been about my job at DNAinfo, an exciting local Manhattan news service. Since September last year I’ve been immersed in the local neighborhood news of Chinatown and the Lower East Side. I must admit, I was opposed at first to covering the Chinatown beat. It made total sense, since I am a Chinese speaker and the only Chinese speaker on staff at DNAinfo. But having reported there during my year at Columbia, I felt like I needed to branch out and have a change of scenery.
Alas I was assigned the beat and off I went.
For the past 5 months, the reporting in Chinatown has surprised me. I am making contacts in the community and what’s interesting is how deeply rooted and passionate people are about their neighborhood. After all, it’s where they live. It is home.
People really care about a local Charter school expanding, about that new luxury hotel opening up around the corner on the Lower East Side, and about the speeding trucks racing off the Manhattan bridge that have crashed into other cars and pedestrians on narrow, busy Chinatown streets.
I have come to care about these issues too.
So I changed my banner, seeing as I’ve been in New York City for a year and a half now. This is my home, for now. This is the place I’m writing about every day.
My Tweets follow big Manhattan stories we cover, but I’m keeping my finger on China, too. I’ll tweet a good selection of news from China and about the Chinese diaspora in America.
Over wonton noodle soup last night in Chinatown, a friend and I contemplated life in the world’s big cities. She has spent considerable time in Paris. We have both lived in Beijing. We now call New York City home. We both agreed life in the big city is stressful; the rhythm of the city is exhilarating yet draining, the people here are passionate yet at times that passion is transformed into aggression and attiTUDE. Still, the stresses of our city lives are in many ways self-fabricated. We work hard (it’s that Chinese work ethic) and we’re competitive (it’s that type-A personality).
But we worry all the while, mulling over decisions and fretting about the future. Maybe it’s because we have too many options in this day and age.
We choose to live in New York City. Where will we be next year?
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suzannebma[at]gmail[dot]com
Suzanne Ma is a multimedia reporter
currently based in Hong Kong.
She is the recipient of
the Pulitzer Traveling Fellowship.
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